Frequently Asked Questions Do you have a question? We're here to answer them for you!

Here are a few of the questions Bob Lovelace, The Home Inspector, hears most often — How long should an inspection take? You should expect a thorough inspection of the foundation, exterior walls, roof, attic, insulation, interior walls, doors, windows, framing, appliances, fans, water heaters, HVAC systems, plumbing, fixtures, bathrooms, kitchen, electrical including panel boxes and cosmetics as they pertain to structural or water penetration. Even on a smaller home of say 1,500 sq. ft. or less takes at least 3 hours to perform a thorough inspection. Our average inspection of homes of 3,000 sq. ft. or less takes 3 to 4 or more hours depending on age and condition. If your inspection takes less that this amount of time, either you have an extraordinary home or you may find your inspection wanting. We also go farther than just saying you have a leak, we explain where the leak is, why it is occurring and often a possible way to repair it. We let you know the small stuff from the major repair items, the cosmetics from the needed repairs. This will allow you to make a well informed decision on whether to purchase the home and how to negotiate the price. What instruments do you use to inspect a house? When performing an inspection we use the ever ready flashlight, no pun intended, tape measure, assorted screw drivers, wrenches, pliers, occasional hammer, water key, screw gun, oven thermometers, laser thermometer, electrical instruments such as voltage meter, outlet tester, gas detector, moisture meter, various digital levels, laser and digital/water levels. There are many other instruments/tools, some seldom used and others often help me to perform an in depth and thorough inspection to allow you to make and informed decision about the purchase of your home. What are those gaps at the brick joints around the house above the slab and should I seal them? These are called weepholes and are spaced 33” apart or less at brick joints above the foundation and above the lintels (metal plates to support brick generally above windows, doors or over garage entrances). These weepholes allow the heat and condensation that builds up between the brick and wall sheathing to escape, are necessary in our hot and humid climate and should never be sealed. However, there are inserts that can be installed or window screening can be folded into the weepholes to help prevent insect infestation. Why inspect a new home in the city limits? Hey, I live in the city limits, the city will inspect my home won’t it, and what about the inspections the home builder performs? Well let’s look at this. The city inspectors have maybe 15 or more homes to look at a day. This means they can only take often 20 to 30 minutes to inspect the same items we often take several hours to inspect. This is also true of the Builder's inspectors who only answer to the Builder and/or the limited criteria required by the home warranty. We inspect and write many items that the Builder's inspectors do not have as part of their inspection including cosmetics as specified by the TRCC (Texas Residential Construction Commission). So to ensure you get a thorough and more complete inspection, use an inspector that is working for you (that would be me) for an unbiased 3rd party inspection. Seriously, be sure to get an inspection to document cosmetic and repair items for your peace of mind. I also am often asked why I should have a 3 phase inspection. Won’t just a final inspection do? A final inspection is important and if you only have one inspection it should be a final one because you can get indications of possible framing issues where covered by sheetrock or exterior wall covering, inspect all final electrical/plumbing (leaks), installation, connections and operation as well as appliances and cosmetics. However, the home is only as sound as it foundation and its framing. We inspect the foundation make up to be sure it is structured as to the plans to ensure that when the concrete is placed, your foundation will be strong and perform as it was designed to. We try to inspect every board in your home for proper installation, number of nails, tight fit and bracing, where visible and accessible. We also check location of smoke alarms, electrical outlets, proper wire, proper installation of electrical and wiring and that they don’t compromise the framing. The roof and decking and attic framing are also inspected for proper installation. The A/C ductwork and HVAC system is checked for proper installation, size, location and proper sealing for energy efficiency, Manual J requirements and recommended A/C returns at bedrooms. We check for energy efficient applications such as proper attic venting, insulation, Radiant Barrier and for Green Building ICF or SIPS wall systems, sealed walls/attic, energy efficient appliances including instant water heaters. These are all parts of a proper phase inspection to ensure you have a safe, efficient, healthy and comfortable home. This is all to ensure that your home is built structurally strong, energy efficient, environmentally friendly, and a comfortable and healthier home. What can I do to reduce my utility bills? I know that Joe Jr. and Quint will both address this question, but let me just list a few items that can reduce your bills, increase the life of some of your appliances, make you more comfortable and your home healthier for you. On existing homes, begin in the attic with proper ventilation, insulation and a Radiant Barrier. Also seal the HVAC system connections at A/C ducts, plenum, coils, transitions, furnaces and install duct work properly. Seal around all wall penetrations on interior and exterior, windows, doors and weather strip doors as necessary. Switching to CFL’s (fluorescent bulbs and tubes) for lighting, upgrade you’re A/C system to an energy efficient 13+ SEER rating. Tint or upgrade to double pane, low reverse windows. These are some other items that can reduce your energy costs by 20, 30 or 40%. Add to that, solar power we can all afford and you can really reduce your bills and have a healthier more comfortable home. Ask me about building a greener, environmentally friendly, energy efficient, healthier home that also holds up to hurricane winds for 2 to 3% more than a standard home with pay back of the increased cost in 1 to 2 years. What do cracks at the corners of a foundation mean? These are called spalling cracks. They happen generally for 3 reasons. One is when the polywrap plastic that covers the brick ledge and up the wall approximately 8” to allow condensation between brick and sheathing to exit at the weepholes blows up at the corners and is not put back down over the corner at the brick ledge. This allows the brick to be mortared directly to the brick ledge and dissimilar materials, brick and concrete, expand/contract at different rates causing the corner to crack. A second way the cracks occur when the concrete when poured or placed is not adequately vibrated to mix well at the corner causing the corner to crack as the concrete cures. The third way is when the tractor grading the yard hits the corner and causes the crack. These cracks rarely cause a problem or failure of the foundation, usually with no repair necessary, unless the crack breaks out. I do not recommend sealing the crack since termites may come up the crack and if it is sealed you may not see their tunnel (soil) behind the sealed crack. Is aluminum wiring dangerous and a deal killer? The answer to this question is no, if properly connected to outlets/switches. All main breaker lugs and branch wire lugs should be sealed with an anti oxidant gel in the panel box. Aluminum wire works fine if it is properly sized and installed at a compatible outlet or switch to reduce resistance of dissimilar materials that can cause connections (screws), to loosen, arcing to occur and a possible fire. To prevent this from occurring in the past, the aluminum wire, which should be one size larger than copper wire; would be spliced to copper wire to match the aluminum wire in the outlet, switch or appliance J-box with a lock wire nut and sealed with wire anti oxidant gel. Today it is more common to connect the aluminum wire to a switch or outlet that is compatible with aluminum such as one labeled CO/ALR. Then the aluminum wire will work fine without excess resistance of electricity at wire, loose connection, arcing and possible fire. To contact Bob Lovelace, call (281) 358-0606 or email boblovelace@aol.com